Moody Patagonia

220 miles of Patagonian wilderness separate Perito Moreno from Gobernador Gregores, with one small outpost along the way at Bajo Caracoles. Cool temperatures and a gusty breeze greeted my departure. A leaden sky held court for the first half of the journey, a classic backdrop to capture images of the distant snow-covered southern Andes.

The wilderness is home to a variety of wildlife, numerous groups of llamas gathered near the road, less common where the rhea, the flightless Patagonian bird.

A beautiful silver grey fox and an armadillo crossed the road ahead of me, I wasn't quick enough on the shutter to capture them.

My prior expectation of Ruta 40 to Gob. Gregores was for a long, flat and dull journey, an impression formed mostly from other motorcycle traveler reports. Though most write little about it, viewing the stage as a necessary step to get to somewhere more interesting. It was long and lonely, flat in parts, though there was more topography to navigate that I expected. Changes in elevation, twists and curves appeared as the road first descended into the occasional valley, ran along the water course then ascended back onto the plateau. Dull it was not, my view recast in light of actual experience.

The sky cleared as I climbed over the ridge in the distance and dropped into the valley beyond. The road turned easterly, the steady 15mph wind now at my back. A refreshing change from the often sideways tilt when the 20-25mph gust blew on through. 

An antique Patagonian wagon was on display as I neared the destination. The rear wheels were fully 6 or 7 feet in diameter, making easy work of the rocky roads that it must have plied.

Not a particularly helpful sign in these parts, though on the day the wind was not bad.

I reached Gob. Gregores about 1.30pm and headed off to find lunch. Not an easy task it turned out, though I eventually found Restaurant Canadon Leon, which offered a buffet lunch. Off on a side street it proved to be a good find, the slow cooked rib of beef was heavenly. I will return for lunch there today, Thursday, the second day of my wind enforced stay.

The gauchos of Patagonia are celebrated on entering the town and in wooden carved statues along the main street.

A red mailbox on main street to pair with the telephone kiosk seen further north.

Displays of old machinery used to haul cargo or and to maintain the roads could be seen walking through the town.

The steam traction engine was built in Minnesota, though the sign stated it was imported from London in 1917. Why it had such a circuitous journey to Patagonia remains a mystery.

Signing off in this currently windswept town, with the hope of continuing south tomorrow.

T2