Carratera Austral - Chile

The other bucket list road in these parts lies in Chile, the Carratera Austral. Only a quarter of the length of Ruta 40 it cuts north to south through some of the wildest parts of Chile. construction was commenced under the military dictator General Pinochet.

The northern end starts at Puerto Montt in Chile, which lies due west of Bariloche. The first several hundred kilometers of the Caratera Austral requires the use of several ferries, not always reliable according to reports I have read. The nearest border crossing that avoids the ferries is at Futaleufu, to get there you first need to head 200 miles south of Bariloche. Esquel is my staging post for crossing on Friday.

Light snow was blowing in from the east on Thursday. Juan, the owner of the Kospi guesthouse, commented only about 5% of the time does weather come from the east and it is difficult to forecast. No precipitation was forecast for the day. By 9.30 the snow had turned into a chilly, light but persistent rain. Still raining at 10.30am  I set off for Esquel on Ruta 40, it was my first soggy start to a ride on this leg. One hour and 30 miles south the clouds broke and it remained dry and partly sunny for the rest of the day.

A mix of mountains and pampas for the day.

Lunch in El Bolson and then onward to Esquel. It was an uneventful ride.

Since crossing the Pampas I have noticed a number of roadside shrines surrounded by plastic bottles. On Ruta 40 was the mother of all shrines. I finally looked up what it was all about, evidently Difunta Correa, a mythical figure, died a grisly death from dehydration in the pampas, but even in death she was able to suckle her baby keeping it alive. The myth was born. She has become the guardian of travelers, it is mostly truck drivers who stop and leave bottles of water at her shrines, to keep her hydrated and them safe on the road. This part of Patagonia must have few shrines or very fearful truckers. I didn't have a bottle so I hope I have not upset her.

Patagonia had a narrow gauge railway at one time, celebrated on one of the roadside signs, as I entered town one of the locomotives was on display. I never miss a chance to take a picture of such things.

A quiet night in Esquel and onward to Chile.

Esquel was in the rearview mirror by 8.30am for the 170 mile jaunt to Puyuhuapi situated on the Carratera Austral. Half the journey was on unpaved roads, though they were in good condtion.

Scenic eye candy to begin the day, I never tire of it, while flamingoes appear to be quite common, one of several groups observed on the Argentinian side.

No lines at the Futaleufu border crossing. 15 minutes and done followed by a short 200 yard hop to the Chile immigration, customs and agricultural inspection post.

The process in Chile was equally fast. Enough time though to meet this German fella, cycling to Ushuaia from Bogota. Eight months on the road, two to go. I'm glad I have a motor. In the picture he is having his agri inspection. The slices of fresh lemon in his water bottle caused a bit of a kerfuffle, though they eventually let him go with the refreshing citrus still bobbing in his water. I ate my pear and banana before going through the cones to the holding  area and aced the inspection!

60 miles from the border I came to the town of Villa Santa Lucia, where I joined the Carratera Austral to head south. This is the last town I will pass through that was devastated by a wall of rock, mud and debris, it all happened less than two years ago. The story is the same as the others, bodies still buried, never to be recovered. The rebuilding process will take a long time.

Rather than take pictures and just ride through I decided to stop and support one of the new business; a cup of coffee and a slice of lemon pie. Tasty. Didn't cost much, it was more a show of support.

One of the signature orange bridges on the Carratera, matched by the flowers on the local holly (or that is what the leaves reminded me of). The local stock market was having a quiet day.

This unusual plant was common by the roadside with an interesting looking flower.

Puyuhuapi was bathed in the smell of wood-smoke, which I rather like. Many of the homes continue to use their wood-burning stoves; it was quite chilly and wet when I arrived. This is the first sight I have had of the Pacific in a while; you know it is not a lake when you see the numerous warning signs. 

In the past it must have been a fishing community, judging by the number of beached and decaying boats on the shore. Most people seem to have turned to serving tourists with accommodation and restaurants. 

These youngsters flashed me a few signs, though I don't think it would have prompted the added window protection on the police vehicle.

Tonight I am staying in a small family run hostel, just 4 rooms and I am the only guest, so I don't have to share the bathroom!

They also have a small restaurant where I just ate, my first taste of merluza or southern hake. Simply prepared in a pan with butter, it was absolutely delicious. Anyway, as seen in the picture the moto is undercover, which is just as well as heavy showers are rolling through. My room is above where the vehicles are parked.

More time on the Carratera Austral on Saturday, heading to the largest town in the area, Coyhaique.

T2