El Calafate and Glaciers

Ten years of winter riding in the New York City Tristate area prepared me for the 23 Fahrenheit, 7am departure from Gobernador Gregores. Two days stationary was enough, I was ready to ride. The early start was an attempt to beat the winds while riding the 50 mile section of ripio (unmade stone & gravel road) on Ruta 40.

An early start, with the sun low in the sky and heading due west, cast a long shadow in perfect alignment ahead of the bike. It was an hour of chilly riding to reach the ripio, which was for the most part in good condition, only a few sections had deeper stone. With low winds it is easier to stay in the car tracks and not get blown into the higher ridges of stone thrown up by cars and trucks. Only in the last 5 miles did the wind pick up. I was happy to find the blacktop again as I headed into Tres Lagos, about half way into the 210 mile journey.

My heated jacket and gloves kept me warm, but my toes were not so happy. I didn't need fuel for the bike but decided to stop at the service station and pick up a coffee and a bite to eat. A delightful lady went out back and cooked up a new batch of medialunes. Hot. Sweet. Buttery. Delicious.

Numerous groups of guanacos lined the road along the way. As I approached they would typically head away from the road towards the fences, occasional hopping over the wires with ease. But caution and slowing down is always advisable, they occasionally have a plan B. Guanacos seemed quite athletic, though several carcasses hung from the wires along the way; a misjudgment or perhaps slipping on winter snow and ice costs them dearly. Not a pleasant way to die.

The road was frequently long and straight, with tantalizing glimpses of distant mountains to keep the rider motivated. Not a lot of traffic around.

Eventually the iconic peak of Patagonia came into view; the magic of this place grabbed me with both hands. Mount Fitz Roy viewed from a bluff on the shore of Lago Viedma proved quite moving, (unusual for me). The wind was blowing hard causing my eyes to tear up, but it would be a lie to suggest that was the only reason. 10 years of learning from other rider's travelogues fueled my interest; my trip 5 years in the making; building El Burro; 13,000 miles under power on this continent. Here I was. It didn't seem real. Ushuaia is a destination; looking at Fitz Roy was spiritual. Nature unleashed. A grey fox joined me at the viewpoint. Yes. Pure magic.

The run into El Calafate passes glacial rivers and onto the shore at the eastern end of Lago Argentina, the third largest lake in South America. The glaciers sit on the western end of the lake, an iceberg calved from the glacier was in view. A journey of 50 miles or more, to a quiet bay where it will finish its days.

One final surprise was in store on Ruta 40, over a 10 minute period eight vintage cars passed by, heading north. I have no idea what their plan was, but they were enjoying the day.

Join me in the video and come along on the journey.

Saturday I joined a tour group to visit Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the few in the world which remains in balance, inputs in the western mountains matching the losses at the glacier face. The scale of the glacier was breathtaking. Originating from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, Perito Moreno Glacier itself covers 98 square miles and is over 2,000 feet in depth in places. The face of the glacier is over 200 feet high at the 'snout' and advances 10 feet a day in the center. The boat on the lake gave a much better sense of scale than being on the boat observing the face.

The deeper the color blue the older the ice. The glacier is alive, cracking could be heard, thunderous at times. I was fortunate to witness the collapse of a small area of the face. It was a memorable day, captured in the video. 

Cheers. T2