La Paz has its own signature compared to Bogota, Quito and Lima. Spanish colonial architecture and the Catholic church do not feature as strongly, local traditions not elbowed out quite as fiercely. Then there is the Teleferico mass transit cable car system, uniquely suited to La Paz, situated in a valley surrounded by saw toothed mountains.
I opted to take a 3hr walking tour that started in San Pedro Square, on one side of which sits a prison. It turns out the felons pay to be in that prison where they buy or rent a cell, open businesses, restaurants and enjoy free access for their families. It is a city unto itself with different quality of barrios within. No guards patrol inside, the governance is undertaken by an organization of felons. So strong is the governing structure that Coca-Cola have negotiated an exclusive supply arrangement. You couldn't make this story up.
A visit to the witches market, replete with llama calves and fetus used in traditional ceremonies (we were told that these were supplied from naturally occurring deaths during the harsh winters - just for the vegetarians to feel more comfortable perhaps). A visit to San Francisco church, which was quite impressive but not of the splendor of others. It includes local iconography in the external decorations as a way to induce the local population to attend, though it worked with mixed results apparently.
The main avenue is divided by a wide central pedestrian area, well maintained with ample seating; a pleasure to walk along. Of course there is the Teleferico, I used the purple line, opened in 2018 and one of 16 connected lines currently in operation with 3 more planned. Efficient and inexpensive to use (50 cents per ride), offering panoramic views of this vast city.
I had been in two minds about visiting and fighting through the traffic, known to be cripplingly heavy. In truth the traffic wasn't so bad and it was definitely worth the effort.
Leaving the city on Wednesday to head the 140 miles south to Oruro I had time to take a side trip to Valle de la Luna, an area about 11 miles south east of La Paz. The hoodoos at the valley park reminded me of Bryce Canyon in Utah, though without the vivid colors. It was easy to understand why people from the city come out to the valle at weekends and also why it is home to the La Paz golf club. Captured in the video below.
The road to Oruro is pretty much arrow straight, running through the scrubland of the altiplano. A few hills add interest, but the real action for the first 40 miles was in the rear view mirrors, which reflected the snow-capped mountains that frame the north and east of La Paz.
Oruro is a city that is undergoing a lot of urban development at it's fringes. A working, not a tourist city, it does boast a lot of artwork; paintings, murals and sculptures on the many wide streets that are divided by pedestrian areas.
There was a large railyard near my accommodation, which naturally I wandered over to take a look at. It was hard to know if the facility was in use when a diesel locomotive roared into life behind the walls, the gates opened and it emerged, briefly, and then returned behind closed doors.
I remain uncertain if it was just a couple of guys having some fun or there was indeed a purpose behind the movement.
Using Booking.com I opted for a room in a residencia, not really knowing what a residencia was. I know now; it is the kind of place that you don't want to book yourself into! The facilities were less than desirable or could have reasonably been expected from the online description. Anyway, lesson learned.
This post is being typed in Sucre where I arrived from Oruro this afternoon. A much nicer lodging experience here, in fact one of the best so far, such is life.
Cheers T2
No comments:
Post a Comment