Bolivia to Chile

140 miles on unmade roads, through remote country, awaits the overland traveler to reach Chile from Uyuni. Once across the border the nearest town is a further 120 miles through the Atacama desert, though the road is paved. There are no gas stations for 260 miles, a tienda or two along the way. It was never going to be a short nor an easy day.

While the Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flat by far, numerous salars dot the region, more than I had realized. Like dried out rock pools - some small, some relatively large. Of the 140 miles to cover in Bolivia about 80 miles are on a salt flat. 

There are no specific roads on the flats, drivers make their own track, sometimes others follow to produce a more defined route.  In the rainy season the flats flood, as they dry out numerous tracks develop to avoid mud wallows. The rainy season ended about 6 weeks ago; the salar to the border was a mass of tracks at times, a clearly defined route was not yet obvious in places so picking a track to follow became the trick. 

When the wind blows over a dried out salar, salts, sand and dust are picked up creating mini sandstorms that last 5 or 10 minutes. You can see them coming, just like a squall line of rain. As I crossed the salar, which took 2-3 hours, a 40-50mph wind developed, visibility was near zero at times. No need to worry about other vehicles, I saw one pick-up truck in the far distance during the crossing. I don't recall ever feeling so isolated or vulnerable.

A momentary lapse of concentration during one of the sandstorm squalls and El Burro went earthbound. Slow speed, not even a bruise, but the front right turn signal snapped. In Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia that wouldn't matter, useless equipment that no one uses; not so in Chile where their function is better understood.

It was dry and sunny though. Here is a sampler of the 140 miles.

A signpost on the salar.

I was happy to reach the border after 5½ hours, got stamped out by immigration very quickly, but Bolivian customs was at lunch. The office with the big 'Aduana' or customs sign, a door labeled 'Entrada' and cones to manage  the little traffic is not in fact where the customs people work, as I found out. Nope, they prefer another office in a scruffy little hut, another 30 minutes lost. The surly customs officer who eventually took the Temporary Vehicle Import Permit, that has to be turned in, did the paperwork in 2 minutes, though an hour plus had been consumed in total.

I was not the only overlander stuck in Bolivian customs confusion and delay. A Brazilian biker couple and a family in a camper van from Washington State enjoyed the proceedings in high winds, being blasted by sand.

One kilometer gets you into Chile. You know when you have arrived as tarmac greets the wheels. Unfortunately, when I arrived, Chile was having their late lunch break! It took another hour to be processed and get the moto paperwork. It was now nearly 4pm; 2 and a bit hours left of daylight for the 120 miles. 

On any other day, in any other place, that would be simple. The road was good but the wind was depositing Atacama sand on the roadway for the first 30 miles, 4-5 inches deep across the width of the road. Of course, at times visibility was not perfect so caution was needed. I stopped on a couple of  occasions to grab pictures.

It was volcano alley.

I finally reached Calama and my accommodation 30 minutes after sundown, to much relief, the reserve fuel light blinking. Showered and went for a Chinese dinner at a nice place a block away. 

It is a day I will remember. I slept well.

The following day was spent in Calama, thoroughly checking the bike over, doing the necessary repairs, cleaning the chain that was caked in grit and salt and so on. 

I noticed fork oil had oozed and gathered up dust sitting on top of the fork tubes. The road in Bolivia had been so rough it caused both lock nuts on the pre-load adjusters to back off, allowing oil to ooze out when the forks were under full compression. Never had that happen before and I have traveled some pretty rough roads on this and previous trips. A day to remember indeed. 

I enjoyed having a rest day and Chile is much more like home. Even had a Wendy's Baconator burger. Not Dave's best effort but it tasted damn good!

Then it was off to the Pacific Coast again, the final time on this leg.

T2