Flight of the Condors

The first order of business after leaving Rumi Wasi was to find fuel and then head to the canyon entrance to purchase the 70 sol entry ticket. Shortly after entering the canyon, on AR109, one of the local volcanoes came into view burping steam and smoke.

Maca, a pueblo on the way to the condor viewing area, celebrates the slaying of a Conquistador by an Incan warrior; a personal battle won, the war of course lost.

The first condors came into view a few miles from the main viewing area, the Cruz del Condor, where animal carcasses are dropped to attract the birds. Morning till noon is the best viewing period, I arrived at 8am and was treated to an abundance of condors riding the thermals on the warming air. 

One took a break and landed nearby.

AR109 continues for another 100 miles to reach the panamerican sur highway. More mixed roads, the first 30 miles paved. Dropping down into the coastal desert the unpaved section became increasingly sandy presenting a riding challenge at times.

A view back to the canyon.

The unpaved road starts after the town of Huambo, not a place on the tourist path, which is why I found myself there. Pavement is not regained until the panamerican sur, 70+ miles and 2-3 hours distant; I met 4 vehicles during the traverse. It is wise to carry a GPS tracker.

At the intersection with the panamerican the traveler is faced with a decision, make a left and loop inland and around to Mollendo; the shortest and fastest route. The alternative is to turn right and head northwest towards Lima, then head south after making the coast. I turned right; I wanted to ride along the Pacific coast. It is 40 miles of desert before making the turn south; temperatures were in the high 80's at an altitude of 3,500ft. In this part of Peru the highland continues to within a few miles of the shore where it drops 3,000ft in a matter of a few miles. At the coast the temperature was a comfortable 72ºF for the 65 mile run into Mollendo. It was worth the extra miles.

The unpaved roads on Saturday were so bumpy that the camera mount detached from the front of the bike. Fortunately the camera was on a lanyard to the moto, so it didn't fall off the bike avoiding a search or damage. So the video Sunday was shot from the helmet mount, there is the occasional head bob due to the road surface or checking mirrors once in a while, even on these deserted roads.

Hotel Villegas III, 3 star accommodation, hosted me on arrival and still does at the time of writing. No bathroom design issues here but twice the price of the Rumi Wasi. Off season, but still vibrant at night in the town center with a decent choice of restaurants; Mollendo is proving a good place to rest and catch up. Ten days riding and over 1,500 miles so far this leg, including some bone jarring roads, have left a 61year-old frame needing a little repair that rest can bring. Ditto El Burro, coming up next.

Cheers. 

T2.