Salta, The Chaco and into Paraguay

Adding to the last post, the journey to Salta from Jujuy follows Ruta Nacional 9 a narrow road that winds its way through the hills and valleys south of Jujuy, an area that was clearly a summer retreat from the heat, humidity and mosquitoes of the flat lands, the Chaco. My expectations of Salta were raised by the write up in Lonely Planet, though it disappointed. Outside of the main square the streets were littered and the local dogs made walking on the pavements unpleasant. The place needed some TLC.

The 700 mile crossing of the Chaco commenced with a 40 mile unpaved road out of Salta following the path of a local military man of the early 1800's, who was fighting in a civil war. He met his death as he tried to escape through the hills, shot in the back on what is now Ruta Provincial 48. It got a little gnarly in places for me too.

The Chaco is a flat land, swampy in places, crossed by RN16, an almost arrow straight road for 500 miles. Like the US Midwest the area is given over to agriculture, arable (cotton and corn seemed to be the most common crops) and raising cattle. Small towns punctuate the route every 30 miles or so with a larger settlement every 100-150.

The journey on RN16 was broken up with an overnight stay in Pampa de Guanacos before moving on to Formosa. Both days were dreary with periods of drizzle and rain. No doubt it looks better in the sun, but not by much.

To reach Paraguay from RN16 it is necessary to head north on RN11. Still flat, more swampy and with only cattle in evidence and an increasing number of palm trees it had the feel of the Florida Everglades. Flooding from the April rains was still apparent.

Formosa is a 100 miles up RN11 and sits on the Paraguay River, currently near flood stage after the devastating rains in the Chaco. I had no expectations of the place, simply an overnight stop before heading to Paraguay. Where Salta disappointed Formosa delighted. Clean with a wide main avenue and a central walking area, a very large main square, pedestrian shopping areas and numerous cafes and restaurants.

The mud covered roads of the Chaco, coupled with the wet conditions, had  left the bike filthy. A local auto lavenderia was willing to make an exception and power wash the bike. Godfredo, the owner, turned out to be a biker and gave me good information about the area. He refused payment, saying he was happy to help a fellow biker who was riding his dream. Nice!

It is 80 miles from Formosa to arrive at the Paraguay border. Normally two options exist to enter Paraguay  a land crossing or a ferry across the Paraguay River. The ferry was not operating due to the flooding, so the land crossing it was to be.

The road north passed through more Everglade looking scenery, and the local penitentiary, before reaching the crossing point. The border was chaotic, cars, people and a line of trucks parked up. Surprisingly, out of the chaos came order, all the formalities were completed in 40 minutes. 

The first mile of road in Paraguay did not set the tone for the 20 mile ride to Asuncion. The line of trucks to cross into Argentina was even longer. 

Cheers T2