Heading down from Chachapoyas a left turn yields to the valley of the Rio Utcubamba, which was running swiftly. A nice relaxing and flat ride through a pastoral setting. A bridge built of blocks of stone with decorative work made a nice change from the usual concrete and steel rail structures.
Eventually, the road took to the hills and at Leyembamba, home of a Mummy museum, the road was closed. Rain was passing through and I was told that the road would not open until 2 pm, it was 10.30. Or I could take the marked detour to Balsas, though the roads were not visible on my GPS. An hour or two in the museum seemed a better option at the time.
The museum held artifacts and displays from the pre-Inca era, including the mummies of the deceased, some of whom died from blows to the head. Apparently, the local tribe was quite fierce!
The staff asked where I was headed. Fortunately, after saying I was waiting until 2pm for the road to open I understood the response; it often didn't open until 4 or 4.30. That would put me in a bad spot timing wise. They told me to ..'take the detour!'. They explained that the first 10km were a little rough but it was a good road, advised on the turns to take .....and commented that the views were better anyway. I would get to Balsas around by 4pm and to Celendin, my destination by 6pm.
The decision was made and they were right on every count.
In the high mountains the temperatures dropped to the low 50'sF, in the valley over 102F. Two valleys, two mountain ranges crossed. The pictures speak for themselves. It was a full 10 hour day.
I arrived in Celendin about the expected time but was having trouble locating the hotel. After asking a couple of times the third time was a charm. Three ladies playing cards had their game interrupted, one of whom gave me directions and then said "...that is my moto you are parked next to, I will lead you there" how nice was that!
Celendin has been home for two nights. The hotel is very comfortable, and the town is clean. The cost of the stay 40 sols, about $13 per night. No reason to camp at that price.
I may have found the ex-racing guinea pigs. They don't look that nice when cooked, worse when raw. Nice of them to leave the major organs in, the best part!
Sidewalks in Peru are often raised a foot or more above the road; now I understand why. Perhaps it is drainage or more relevant to have a seat while sharing the gossip. The hats have changed from up north. Is there significance to the change? I can't seem to ask the correct question to get the answer.
Back to business tomorrow.
Cheers. T2
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