Crossing the Pampas

Two days and 725 miles from Zarate but the Pampas is not done with me yet. Tomorrow the Andes will come back into view after another 200 miles or so of flat roads, scrub and grassland. Yes, for sure the Andes are far more dramatic than the Pampas, but it is not without interest.

But first, Brits might find the photo below of interest, sighted while wandering around Zarate...would have thunk it? A Brit telephone box, with telephone installed and functional! A Tardis next?

Well, I made a reasonably early start leaving Zarate at about 7.30am, to a bit of a chill under a clear blue sky. I'll take it. A few pictures from along the way on what was an enjoyable low stress ride, with throttle hand set at 55-60mph for miles on end.

No tolls for motorcycles in Argentina.

Some vittles along the way. A gas station snack and lunch at a restaurant that served a brilliant steak, cut from one of the former inhabitants of the Pampas, sooooooo tender and juicy.

A few pictures of the Pampas.

And the payoff for the distance travelled so far, entering Patagonia from the northeast; a bit of a dream come true really.  The sign was about 35 miles from Santa Rosa where I stayed the night.

Another early start from Santa Rosa, though not so much chill, it was 64F at 7.45am when I left. I was surprised by the undulating terrain with a few small lakes along the way, some completely dried up. This area is normally dry, but the past winter has been exceptionally so, according to the host at the homestay last night. The one below caught my eye, still filled and I saw specs of pink in the distance.

Yes, they are flamingoes; another surprise delivered up by the Pampas

Neuquén, the capital of La Pampa region, was the target destination. The planned route took me across country on Ruta Nacional 152, though as I made the turn onto RN152 there was a police check point, where I came to a stop. Asked my destination I was advised that the road had some problems, not sure quite what, but they recommended using a different route, longer in miles but not in time. I took the advice and as a consequence met up with the three Argentinian moto amigos below, who are also heading to Ushuaia.

Rather a lot of luggage on the 250cc single cylinder Honda, ridden by the well rounded guy on the left. We passed each other a few times on the road during the day. Who knows I might bump into them again as I head south.

Evidently the area north of Neuquén is a source of hydrocarbons. Just as well the wildfire was not close to an oil well.

And fruit growing. Pears based on the signage by the road.

Neuquén is a relatively large city, and being in Patagonia commemorates the Falkland War (as we Brits call it). Many of the military bases used in the war are in Patagonia, the memorial to the fallen was simple; an infinity reflecting pool, quite well done.

Most restaurants in the town do not open until 8pm or even later. I managed to find one not too distant from the hotel that opened at 7. Spaghetti and meatballs washed down with two glasses of a local craft IPA. I'm ready for bed!

All for now.

T2

The Final Leg

The first day of riding and 300 plus miles under my belt has helped wash away the blues that lingered after leaving the family and comforts of Richmond behind. Hot sunny weather in Richmond was matched by the same conditions on arrival in Montevideo, though this shot of early spring heat is about to take a 20-30F drop in the next day or two, but it looks to be mostly dry.

United Airlines with a short hop on Austral Air to complete the journey ferried me to Montevideo, arriving early afternoon on Wednesday. The flights were all punctual and the rear tire I carried over also appeared on the luggage belt, much to my delight. After unpacking I headed to a local restaurant, a carafe of wine and a decent meal that tasted better than it looked. Sleep came easily (as it usually does for me).

     

Thursday rolled around and I headed off to Willi's Motos where the bike had been stored. Already pulled from the store, was in the workshop ready for an oil change and the rear tire to be fitted.

Willi, the owner of the repair shop was a Uruguayan motocross and endure champion back in the day and has travelled widely on the continent on two wheels. He gave me a few tips on where to go once I am in the Patagonia region. Nice guy and very knowledgeable.

As I mentioned the last time I was in the shop with his son Kevin, Willi has a range of antique motorcycles in his shop. Following complaints from some quarters in Connecticut that I didn't post enough photos here are a few more!

 

And El Burro ready for the open road

The journey to Fin del Mundo commenced today, Friday 27th September with a jaunt back towards Fray Bentos, though on a more northerly route, via the nice town of San Juan. A pleasant ride through undulating countryside that eventually brings you into the town of Merecedes, where the video kicks off. Once through the immigration and customs formalities the impressive bridge over the Rio Uruguay lands one in Argentina. A few miles beyond is a National Police inspection area that must be every truck driver's nightmare.

After 25 miles the road turns south onto a well maintained divided highway. It was a little surprising to see a gaucho on his horse trotting along in the median. Not something one will see on Interstate 95 or the M25! Nearing the town of Zarate, home for the night, the highway crosses two rivers with quite impressive bridges. A railroad bridge runs along the side of both (with quite steep gradients). As I crossed the first bridge a train was heading over in the opposite direction, it made for interesting viewing. The second bridge gives a good view of the town of Zarate, where the Kin Hotel is doing me quite nicely!

Thanks for coming back and checking in on the final leg of the adventure.

Cheers. T2.