Reunited.

Sunday in central Bogota is not a slow day, it positively bustles. But I have left that behind for the  relative tranquility of the suburbs, that is when the jets are not being vectored overhead. Bogota airport is but a mile or two away and my new accommodation, Hotel Boutique Mendoza, apart from being a nice little gem (private bathroom, no damp in the walls either, imagine that!), it is only100 yards from the importing agent's office.

Veronica Mosquera operates her business, CargoRider, from a new to her office, where we met briefly. Finally, I had some good news, despite the normal process she has obtained the SOAT insurance prior to customs clearance. That should mean the bike will be parked at the hotel courtyard by tomorrow night for a Tuesday morning getaway.

Yes, perhaps I am tempting fate by typing this on Sunday evening, though the post will never see the light of day unless I can append it tomorrow!

Drum roll...………..

The day started at 8.30am with a pick up to get to the Avianca cargo area of Bogota airport, where I met up with a group of 8 Irish folks, part of a tour of 14. Nice people, we chatted a lot during the 7 hours we spent together. By 12 noon I was sitting in the Avianca cargo lounge. Avianca require the goods to be removed from their warehouse to be unpacked. Obviously, that is what happened but we went over to the Air Canada cargo area to do it; where the Irish were unpacking. Air Canada allow you to unpack in the warehouse; I got very wet, they did not. Luck of the Irish is not a myth.

The rain had eased by the time we left, though the parking lot was horrendously slick with all the diesel the rain brought to the surface. I was supposed to be guided back to the hotel, but after waiting another 30 minutes I plugged the address into maps.me and made my way. It was an easy four miles, one missed turn, a one way system, but on quiet suburban streets it was not an issue.

I am happy to have El Burro ready to roll. See you on the road.

T2

Despair. Salvation. Redemption. Frustration. Liberation?

The motorcycle shipping roller-coaster has continued through the past week, no different to the week prior. This is what rejection from US CBP looks like after the freight forwarder filed incomplete paperwork. The rejection was not notified to me until it was too late to react on Friday,14th.  Salvation came when Lyn was able to locate the bank check receipt and I sent a document with the deposit so the math added up to the full purchase price.

               Despair                                                                                Salvation

                                   

Unfortunately, the additional paperwork could not be filed on Monday as Federal offices were closed for MLK day, another day lost. However, redemption came on Wednesday, with US customs clearance. The bike could FLY at 12.01am Thursday...the carrier had three flights on Thursday (24th), yeah, baby! But then the frustration. The carrier holds goods for 24 hours after getting US customs notification and the only flight Friday is at 22.00 so the bike lands early Saturday, another day lost. 

     Redemption                                                                             Frustration

   

Liberation will (I hope) commence on Monday 28th,  at 9.00am, it takes 8-12 hours to get through Colombian customs. Then the following day I need to get SOAT, mandatory government insurance. It takes 4 hours to issue after submitting paperwork and cannot be done without customs clearance. A SOAT sticker is issued that has to be attached to the bike, the bike cannot leave port without it. 

The wheels should roll on Tuesday afternoon. Stay tuned.

In the meantime, the title of this post accurately conveys a much more important series of recent events here. Narco-trafficking, the political corruption that came with it, the terrorism that resulted  (bombings and political assassinations especially in Bogota), the war on drugs, the fall of the narcos the corresponding rise of FARC, ELN and the government sponsored paramilitaries that killed thousands of innocent people who fled the cities for the 'safety' of the countryside. The peace treaty with FARC, the failure of talks with ELN late last year, the recent bombing that resulted and the mass demonstration for peace in Plaza de Bolivar last Sunday. 

Tour guides confidently confront the past; young, vibrant and full of hope. The 'establishment' also has numerous displays in museums on the conflicts, including the Military Museum visited today. The museum abounded  with evidence of US tax dollars at work, though not always in the right hands I suspect. Anyway, a video collage follows that may be of interest.

                                         

Back home I enjoyed the Netflix series Narcos, in fact I enjoyed it a lot. My time here has given me a new perspective on Escobar, what he did and what followed. As a consequence I have shelved my plans to visit Hacienda Napoles; out of respect to the Colombians who are celebrating their country as it is today and looking forward, not back.

Ciao. T2

Transportation....

...I have none yet. 

US Customs it turns out is in control and until they approve the export of the bike it remains in Miami. Information has been requested and supplied, evidently a clean vehicle title, no liens, is not enough to establish legal ownership for US Customs, they demand proof of payment to the seller; a copy of a check or similar. Good grief! My stay in Bogota is extended into next week or even the week after at the pace things move. 

US Customs has the carrot, I have no stick. Success is measured in small steps; the experience of moto travelers who preceded me to South America tempered my expectations prior to departure, though I had no reason to anticipate this particular problem. I better understand the frustrations they expressed now that I am here. The payoff awaits.

In the meantime, while on the daily commute to my Spanish class several detours have been taken in an effort to locate a motorcycle parts stores. Bogota is chock full of motos so of course they need service and parts stores, finding one was the trick. As it turned out, find one and you find them all. It is the equivalent of searching for an oasis in a desert. Three days I wandered, nothing, then I found the oasis and was drunk for choice. It was more like a motorcycle rally than the usual day to day purchasing experience back home. Who knew that spending $8 on a couple of service items could bring such joy...small steps.

                                         

                                       

At least I do not (yet) have to turn to street performances to fund my motorcycle tour, as does this chap. He was pretty good, so I dropped him a few coins, enough for a couple of thimbles of gas. A 500 peso coin doesn't go far here.

Speaking of transportation, Bogota has a bus system that the locals use in large numbers. The TransMilenio is the major element of the system with two and three coach articulated vehicles running on dedicated roadways. Aside from the belch of diesel exhaust as they pass, the system appears effective, though I would not describe it as tourist friendly. 

With another weekend in Bogota I decided to take the tourist train to Zipaquira to visit the salt cathedral. The ticket is purchased from the local train station that operates the tourist train that only runs on weekends. The station building has been put to good use by the National Transportation Police. I thought being there was a good thing from a personal security standpoint until I learned of the bombing at the Bogota police academy the same day. I wouldn't avoid visiting London, Paris or Madrid due to acts of terrorism, so the trip continues on with normal vigilance. 

Anyway, the building also housed  a museum of police transportation over the last century. The vehicles included examples  from Poland, Russia, USA, UK and Italy. The Ferrari was not a purchase but a confiscation from one of the cartels in the '90's.The Ferrari was not on display so I rather suspect it  found its way into a private collection. The other vehicles (though not stated) likely reflect the complexion of the Colombian government at the time and attempts by foreign governments to cement influence and/or corrupt officials. Unfortunately, based on displays in the National Museum and the Museum of Independence, Columbians have had a hard time finding government officials that were not corrupt or corruptible. When they did find one (Gaitan) he was assassinated while campaigning for the Presidency in 1948. He was a liberal, popular, and was likely to be elected. The hand (if there was one) behind the 'mentally ill' person who pulled the trigger and was killed in the aftermath is still a matter of debate in Colombia. Well, enough background wittering, below is a video; a collage of matters transportation. 

As the first rail related image revealed, Ferrocarriles Nacionales Colombia has seen better days. In fact it ceased to exist 1991. The only rail transport in the Bogota area now is the tourist train, created and resurrected from the old operation a few years ago. A single train runs at weekends, it was slow and bumpy but well supported by the locals. As the video portrayed they make the most of what they have.

Next week I will be brushing up on Spanish and using the time to route plan in Ecuador. I remain under the foolish belief that the bike will get here one day. The blog will go quite until I have better news on the moto.

Ciao. T2

Images of Bogota

A very interesting city, full of life and culture.

And a very unusual breakfast treat, hot chocolate with cheese; the cheese goes into the beverage and is enjoyed with the bread. Try ordering that at a Dunkin Donuts!

Images of Bogota part 1

Images of Bogota part 2

The local freight agent has been in contact to fill out some blanks in the bike importation documents, so things are moving at least. No date on the actual flight into Bogota as yet.

Private Spanish lessons start this afternoon, 2-4pm. Two hours that are supposed to be fun, we shall see. After a week I surely cannot emerge with less understanding than when I entered.

Cheers. T2

Bogota

Every country evolves activities designed to enrich daily life. Tomorrow I will go in search of one of  Colombia's. Guinea pig racing; a source of amusement and street gambling I am told. How can the race history of a guinea pig be validated or the current form assessed? Are losers sent to Peru to become street food? Mysteries to be solved.

The journey over was a breeze. Thanks were passed on to the TSA folks working at MIA despite the government shutdown. I arrived very early for the flight fearing long lines to pass through security. It was unnecessary.

Leaving Miami at sea level I have yet to descend to that altitude, coming into land at Bogota, 8,600 feet closer to the stars.

It will be a while before I see a coast, the Pacific.

Here is home for 10 days, in La Candelaria, in the heart of the old city. Fatima Hostel and Suites.

It may look like the entrance to a prison, and in fact perhaps it once was. Today, even though the room is unheated, the showers are hot, toilet paper is provided in the bathroom and the beer in the fridge is cold. 👍 

Fatima may well represent the pinnacle of the places I stay in.

Ajiaco, a dish originating from Bogota and much bragged about, was diner for tonight. I located the place claiming the 'The Best Ajiaco in The World', first pointed out during the city walking tour  I enjoyed this afternoon. Braggadocio I thought and of course I have nothing to compare it to, but the three potato and chicken soup with corn, served with avocado and rice did not disappoint. They also claim the same for their hot chocolate.The ajiaco convinced me to go back to try it.

On reflection it doesn't look as appetizing as it tasted, better that than the reverse.

Spanish lessons start Monday. No word on El Burro's arrival yet.

Cheers. T2

Staging post.

Sometimes you just get lucky.

By chance I stumbled on the vacation rental site, VRBO,  as I scoured the internet for a place to stay in Miami, in proximity to the airport. Ended up in a nicely appointed, self-contained unit, in the backyard of a nice family with origins in Peru; my hosts Gus, Rosario and their son Gabe.

                                      

Gus and Rosario have been very welcoming, setting a high bar for hospitality that their countrymen & women will have to work hard to match. Gathered some useful travel tips as well, including how to pronounce Huaraz, a Peruvian town I plan on visiting. My Spanish mumbling suggested I was actually heading to a town of similar name in Mexico. Oh dear 😕.

My digs for four nights; the wall art in the cabin eerily in keeping with my being here.

                      

However, the first shot of good fortune on the way south was meeting up with a longtime work colleague, now retired and enjoying life in Melbourne, FL. River Rocks on the Indian River served a nice lunch, liquid refreshment (no tsk! tsk! please, mine was non-alcoholic) and a convivial spot to catch up on the last several years. A few people who may read this will recognize my lunch buddy. Not just a lunch buddy, but the last familiar face encountered before I exit the US. Now there is something no-one would likely have predicted. Thanks for making time Jerry, the pleasure was mine.

…...and finally this …….

The drop off was very efficiently handled. No word yet on when El Burro will be in the air, as for me, well my next post will be from Bogota; I fly Thursday 10.40am, courtesy of American Airlines.

Hasta luego mis amigos.

¡Salud! T2

Launch Day.

….. it is said that nothing good comes from idle hands.  Click on the video for proof...….

A bit of spaghetti western to the soundtrack don't you think? Yeeee - ha....c'mon, giddy up mi burro.

Video bombed by my daughter's dog who steals the show of course. 

Cheers, T2.

The road ahead.........I have a plan.......

The trip commences Saturday, January 5th. The forecast looks decent for the two day ride from Virginia to Miami, the point of departure for El Burro and I. The moto will be dropped off on Monday, 7th and I will hang in Miami until Thursday, just in case there are any last minute hitches to be resolved on the shipment paperwork.

My flight south is booked, however, the date for the bike airfreight will only be confirmed a few days after it has been dropped off at the freight forwarder. The process of shipping the bike takes about 10 days from drop off to recovery in Bogota, 72 hours of which are consumed by US Customs in Miami. Before the bike can leave the US it needs an ITN - so when it gets shipped back I can avoid import duties. Preparation for this endeavor uncovered a number of quirks, one example being that airfreighting the bike back to the US is easier, quicker and 40% less expensive than exporting it. Go figure.

The citizens of Bogota will be the first to suffer my broken Spanish, which has been fashioned mostly through internet resources. Eating is a priority for me, it always has been, so my learning  has gravitated toward matters alimentary. Plates of rice and beans will be brightened up by the occasional manzana and most assuredly an end of the day cerveza (of course, on a road trip a beer has medicinal purposes, well known for relieving saddle soreness).

Once reunited with El Burro I will head north from Bogota before turning west in the direction of Medellin, with a couple of sight seeing stops along the way. Other than that the rest is in rough outline; part of the fun is the freedom to change course and take the time to gather new experiences. Suggestions from the people I meet along the way will help shape the journey. 

The tour will occur in three segments totaling about 6 months through 2019. The first 8 week chapter embraces Colombia, Ecuador and northern Peru. My return to the US is scheduled for March 6th, from Lima back to Richmond.

Come along for the ride, it would be great to have your company. Add your email at the top right for notifications of new posts if you are foolish enough to engage in my ramblings.

Cheers. T2